[edited to fix a few of the worst errors — heh, I is gonna be a english teechur]

Sundance 2004 was the goal for Sunday, if I could manage to get myself moving in time to get there before the last ferry to the event on Nomi Island left Hiroshima Port at 12:30p. That would seem fairly late, but factoring in a 1.5 hour train ride into the city and then another 45 minute streetcar trip to the port, my lazy and tired butt just managed to get there before the next-to-last one left. However that water taxi was full, so I ended up catching the last one anyways (I probably could have caught the earlier ferry, but I wasn’t 100% sure of how that was working and it required a bus ride on the island). The organizers of the event had things worked out pretty well and other than the wait things went OK. Judging from the people in line, the attendees were a good mix of Japanese and gaijin (foreigners) like myself (although perhaps not quite like myself, most of the accents weren’t USian).

The boat ride went fairly smoothly, even though due to the size of the craft I had the theme of Gilligan’s Island running through my head. There were a few more than seven people on it, though. I think it was the first time I’d been any significant distance on a boat other than a ferry (and even then, the Galveston ferry doesn’t go this far I don’t think). A bit over an hour later the water taxi pulled up conveniently to the pier at Beach Okimi.

The event itself was on a partitioned off far end of the beach, with a stage and various vendors serving up food & drinks. I’d packed really, really lightly since I didn’t know quite what to expect and I don’t have much in the way of beach stuff here. Basically just showed up in my “Arizona, Its a Dry Heat” t-shirt (in a fit of “multi-cultural” irony), my swim/jogging shorts, a fanny pack with stuff like suntan lotion and a bunch of drinks I’d bought at the ferry terminal. A towel of some sort would have been helpful, but I hadn’t been a particularly hoopie frood this morning. However I guess my Fates were feeling helpful and a free onsen/hand towel came my way of the kind folks at gethiroshima.com (the website that I found out about the event in the first place). They were handing them out to the first 50 people that dropped by their tent (musta been a slow day considering I got there close to 2pm). They were cool to talk with and also had a very good English map of downtown Hiroshima they were handing out. It points out all the hot and useful places. Worth picking up if you’re in the area and can get your hands on one.

Of course this event was supposed to be about the music, which there was a good variety of. I probably missed half the groups that played, but I caught bits of pop, rock, dance, rap/hip-hop (which is actually a bit more tolerable in Japanese), and other strange stuff. In that category was a group whose yukata (summer robe) clad singer crooned in a somewhat traditional Japanese style while playing an accordion, backed up by a bass player, a drummer with a gong on his kit and (if I remember) a guitar player that sat on the stage and looked more like she was there for a funeral. But it didn’t stop there, as the odd female lead climbed onto the shoulders of a tall, athletic guy from the audience and wandered around the crowd, up and down the steps. More than a little weird, I guess, but loads of fun and the audience loved it. Intermixed with the bands were various dance groups, mostly doing stuff to hip-hop music.

While this might not exactly be my usual scene, I did attempt to mingle here and there with mixed success. The encounter that blew my mind the most, though, was a big Maori guy that recognized me as being from Mukaihara. Seems he lives here, too. His wife runs the local bar from what I could understand and they’d seen me serving noodles at the local festival. Amazing how such a small place extends its reach so far.

Other than that, I did a brief bit of swimming and lots of just people watching. The beach itself was no better than OK in my opinion — the sand was kinda rocky, especially once you got into the water. The water itself was really murky and had the usual junk in it. Reminded me of Galveston Island by and large. Although at least with Galveston the depth increases gradually, this one gets deep fast. I really need to take a trip to a nice beach sometime, best I’ve done in past years was Blacks Beach in San Diego and though that one’s not bad as a beach (it has other things going for it, too), I know there’s better out there. Another trip for another time (perhaps head to Okinawa during the winter or something).

As the afternoon passed, the announcers made more frequent warnings about making sure you caught one of the ferries back before 7pm or else you’d be on your own. So around 5pm I decided I’d had enough of the sun and sand, sights and sounds. Figured since I’d taken the water taxi over, I’d take the bus/ferry back for a bit different experience. Took forever for the bus to actually leave, but was a kinda pretty drive around the island. [side note: I’m continually amazed at how easily most Japanese take catnaps when there’s nothing to do when traveling or waiting. On the train, on a bus, while sitting and waiting in line — I just can’t do it, no matter now tired I am.] There was a short wait of maybe 15 minutes at the island ferry terminal before the next one showed up. When it did, there was the usual people-and-cars-unload, people-and-cars-load routine.

Once we set off I was reminded how much I’d enjoyed the few other times I’d ridden on ferries before. They’re massive enough that the ride is smooth under normal seas and the scenery passes at a leisurely, but appreciable, pace. Even in Japan’s hot, humid summer, the breeze from the boat’s motion cools you as you wander around the decks, looking at the scenery. And the scenery here in the Seto Inland Sea is well work looking at and appreciating, especially at sundown as I was seeing it. Island after island layer in the misty distance much as one mountain range after another does through the desert haze in Arizona, the sun casting its rays between them and the clouds on the horizon. Alas I had long sincefinished off the pictures on the disposable camera I’d bought at Hiroshima Port, so no images to share other than the ones I can create in word here. I’ll definitely have to return to capture some of this on film (or electrons, actually).

Oh, if you don’t feel like standing outside gawking over the railings like I did the whole time, you can sit inside. Japanese ferries have one difference there, besides just seats there is a tatami-style floor area for taking off your shoes and sitting or sleeping (since some ferries are overnight). Most people took advantage of this area, especially those in groups. Great for getting together and playing cards or something to pass the time.

Anyways, eventually returned to the port and took the streetcar back to the train station. Since I had plenty of time to get back to Mukaihara, I was pondering what I’d want to do for dinner-type food around the station once I got there. That question was easily answered just as I approached the station as there was a mini summer festival being held right in front of it. I grabbed some okonomiyaki, takoyaki (fried balls with octopus in it) and a beer and ate them while listening to more music. This was the first time I’d tried takoyaki, a popular summer item in this area of Japan. While I’ve been OK with the octopus I’d had before, there’s something about this combination that just doesn’t work for me (plus the added worry about whether I’d be able to swallow it with my scar-constricted throat). Decided to stick to the okonomiyaki, which was Hiroshima style — the noodles and other ingredients are in a layer between the batter/fried egg layers, unlike the usual Osaka style that Yoshimatsu in Tucson serves where everything is mixed together and there aren’t any noodles involved. I was already a big fan of okonomiyaki and I think Hiroshima style is growing on me.

Music wasn’t bad, mainly listened to one popish group whose male & female lead (as well as most of the rest of the members) wore yukata, for the festival I guess. Was interesting seeing a group of female sax, etc. players in yukata — wonder what my sister Melissa would look like doing that.

Once they’d finished their set and encore, I decided to wander around the street in front of the station to kill an hour until the next train home. This was a little less financially dangerous than the previous trip, but that was mostly due to lack of time. Went through the numerous levels of one department store across from the station just to see what was there. Then peeked into the Sega arcade and wasted a few hundred yen on UFO catcher machines. Leaving there and seeing a pachinko parlor next door resulted in some hypocritically ironic thoughts about the throngs gambling away their yen (considering I’d pretty much done the same thing, but it was for an anime figure so its different, right? Right?).

Back to wandering, I fell into a black hole. One kanji I’ve become really good at recognizing is the one for book (?), as in hon-ya or bookstore. And the one just next door to Hiroshima station is a monster, something like eight floors of books, magazines, CDs, videotapes, DVDs and even video games. Some floors are new stuff, others used. Really need to check out the used ones again since I didn’t have time, even after deciding to take a train an hour later than the one I’d originally been killing an hour waiting for. More manga overload, only thing I found and actually bought was the first volume of Asagiri no Miko , which my sister pointed out from the anime takes place in Miyoshi, Hiroshima. I’ve been wanting to check it out and see if I can match up any real scenery. So far I recognize a mural at the train station depicting the cormorant fishing that takes place in Miyoshi during the summer. Have to see if the temple in the anime/comic is real.

As time for the train approached, I tore myself away from the store, rushed over to buy my ticket and get on the train. I was pretty dead from the day, but not really in a way I could do the Japanese thing and sleep. As a result, I had my first train English practice encounter. The young guy that sat down across from me was a law college student from Tokyo who was heading home for the Japanese holiday of Obon (which honors one’s dead ancestors). He’d done a year of English study in Hawaii, but hadn’t had a chance to practice it much since. We chatted a bit, his English was reasonable and it was kinda nice to be able to have a conversation in complete sentences, even if I was still in the habit of… talking… slowly… and with… pauses (geeze, I bet after a year here I’ll sound like Shatner). Both of us were tired from our travels, though, so it was probably just as well that he got off after a few stops and left me to veg for the remaining hour.

Finally got home and crashed, resulting in probably one of the soundest sleeps I’ve had since coming here. Actually was a little amazed I was able to hear the alarm this morning, even if I did hit the snooze for a bit (man I’m glad I have a couple minute walk to the office). On the whole an excellent weekend, have to do something like it again as soon as I can afford it (although I may try for Comiket in Tokyo with Dawn this coming weekend, just have to see how it goes as I play it by ear again).

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